what if crops grew back every year like your lawn does each spring?

if you’re a farmer, a gardener or a scientist, i know your ears just perked up — but this story isn’t just for you. such an innovation would have an impact on the entire food system, and anyone who eats.

in this episode of the food fix, i will walk listeners through the past, present and future of agriculture all in 14 minutes. i start off explaining the birth of agriculture in the fertile crescent, where humans first began domesticating crops. then i fast forward to the present and explain how our current agricultural way of life is thanks to 10,000 years of breeding. once everyone is caught up, i present the idea of perennial grains.

grains like corn, soy and wheat make up about 50% of every human’s diet. we grow 2.2 billion tons of grains each year to meet that need. and at the end of every season, we rip up those “amber rays of grain” and release all the precious carbon that was being stored in the roots back into the atmosphere. not to mention, the cycle is hard on farmers and the soil.

but what if we could leave grain crops in the ground for a few years? their roots would grow long and deep and the soil microbiome would flourish.

to create such a crop naturally would take thousands of years, but scientists at the land institute have discovered a way to engineer it in just 50.

on oct. 11, the pork industry trade group argued that california’s incoming regulations would unfairly burden pork producers across the country by requiring them to meet california’s animal welfare standards, which would impose an undue limitation on interstate commerce. california, on the other hand, defended its regulation as a legitimate, in-state issue. because farm animals in the u.s. do not have a universal right to welfare, these arguments turn on whether a state’s individual morals can justify a restriction on interstate commerce, rather than the wellbeing of the pigs. 

proposition 12 was enacted in 2018 after 62% of californians voted in favor of banning the sale of pork from breeding pigs, or a breeding pig’s offspring, where the sow is confined to less than 24 square feet of usable floor space.

“california voters chose to pay higher prices to serve their local interest in refusing to provide a market to products they viewed as morally objectionable and potentially unsafe,” said michael mongan, california’s solicitor-general.

according to the trade group, this regulation constitutes a breach of the dormant commerce clause – a legal doctrine inferred from article i of the constitution. under the doctrine, states may only enact restrictions that discriminate against, or unduly burden, interstate commerce if that effect is incidental and proportional to a legitimate local interest. 

in other words, the purported benefit of the law must outweigh the burden placed on interstate commerce. as consumers of 13% of the nation’s pork market, california’s regulation will significantly impact pork producers across the country. according to the pork industry trade group, animal welfare concerns do not constitute a legitimate local interest to outweigh this.

“proposition 12 violates the commerce clause almost per se because it’s an extraterritorial regulation that conditions pork sales on out-of-state farmers adopting california’s preferred farming methods, for no valid safety reason,” argued timothy bishop, counsel for the trade group. “it burdens interstate commerce for no local benefit.”

his argument that the pigs’ welfare is not a legitimate public interest reflects the fact that animal welfare is not widely protected in the u.s. this sets the u.s. apart from a number of countries – the united kingdom and new zealand are just two examples of countries with national legislation that requires any person responsible for animals to ensure their protection.  

animal sentience is also becoming increasingly accepted around the world. at least 39 countries expressly recognize it in legislation. although often ill-defined, the sentience institute describes it as “the capacity to have positive and negative experiences, usually thought of as happiness and suffering.” france, which recognized animal sentience as early as 1975, paired this with a requirement that animals be kept in conditions that are appropriate to the “biological … requirements of their species.”

in accordance with increasing awareness, numerous countries are moving toward the prohibition of restrictive gestation crates for sows. new zealand, which expressly recognized animal sentience in 2015, is working to phase them out following a 2020 high court decision, which found that they are unlawful under the country’s animal welfare act. 

in the u.s., animal welfare laws are sparse and often state dependent. justice ketanji brown jackson pointed out that the distinction between humanely-raised and inhumanely raised pork is not universally held. “if it were, i would think the market would have already accounted for it everywhere,” she said.

oregon, maine, and illinois are among a number of states that have recognized animals as sentient beings – either explicitly or implicitly. but protections at a federal level are limited. the animal welfare act of 1966, a primary piece of animal protection legislation governing the treatment of animals in research, exhibition, and transport, expressly excludes farm animals from its definition of “animals.” 

nine states have banned the use of gestation crates for breeding pigs, but massachusetts is the only other state to ban the sale of pork raised using them. this law, which was set to take effect in august, has been temporarily blocked by the state’s district court pending the supreme court’s decision.

this lack of animal welfare protection was apparent last month. because there is no clear basis to assume that animal welfare is a legitimate interest across the nation, california’s disagreement with the treatment of pigs in other states is not sufficient to support proposition 12, argued edwin kneedler, counsel for the department of justice.

instead, the arguments focused on whether a state’s values may constitute a “legitimate local interest.” a number of justices seemed concerned about the consequences of finding that they could. they questioned the possibility of a floodgates effect, offering analogies where a state may prohibit the sale of goods produced in other states by workers who do not earn a fair minimum wage, or have access to union membership.

“a lot of policy disputes can be incorporated into laws like yours,” said justice elena kagan. “you could have states doing a wide variety of things through the mechanism of saying ‘unless you comply, you can’t sell goods in our market.’”

these concerns leave substantial uncertainty in this case. unusually, its appearance in the supreme court comes at a preliminary stage. the court must decide whether the pork industry has an arguable case under the dormant commerce clause. if so, they will send it back to lower courts for a fuller exploration, an outcome which seems likely, based on the number of questions from the bench.

this article was originally published on medill news service, a project of northwestern university.

edible insects 

rick weiss, the director of sciline – an editorially independent, nonpartisan, nonprofit publication service for journalists and scientists – moderated a panel diving into the “future of food.” three experts on the subject spoke about the possibilities that roam beyond typical farming strategies that are more sustainable for the environment and potentially healthier for humans as well. 

dr. julie lesnik, an assistant professor in the department of anthropology at wayne state university, discussed the potential for mass-produced “edible insects” like crickets. crickets produce high levels of protein and even greater levels of calcium and iron compared to pigs and cows. these figures could vary depending on what a farmer feeds their livestock, lesnik said. but overall, insects pack high amounts of nutrients. 

large-scale farms producing a single crop depend on high amounts of fossil fuels, pesticides, and antibiotics, according to healthcare without harm. cows are placed in tight, cramped spaces on farms in order to produce as much meat as possible. this method, in which cows are raised for human consumption, raises concerns about the ethics of mass-producing meat, lesnik said. but crickets like close-knit spaces. 

“crickets already like dark, cramped spaces, and so they produce well. they’re happy in those spaces,” lesnik said. 

many countries already eat crickets and other insects but the u.s. has built up a stigma against them. lesnik said this stigma stems from colonial america when spanish sailors, like christopher columbus’ crew members, saw indigenous tribes eating bugs and viewed the behavior as “beastly.”

“if we’re going to change this attitude, we’ve got to change this idea of it as primitive and savage and allow younger generations to view insects differently and make this food source available to them,” lesnik said. 

cellular agriculture  

dr. kate krueger is a cell biologist and research director at new harvest – a nonprofit research institute that supports innovations in cultured meat and cellular agriculture. during krueger’s introduction to the panel, sciline’s weiss shared “how impossible burgers are, in fact, possible,” given the research krueger has conducted. 

she discussed the potential for cellular agriculture to substitute meat farming. cellular agriculture requires cells to be taken out of an organism, like a cow, and then grown onto a material called a scaffold. a scaffold allows the cells to grow up and be fed with nutrients and minerals in a bioreactor to make a steak-like product. technology for a steak-like product is at least 10 years away from coming to fruition, but products like meatballs, chicken nuggets, and burgers are closer to 5 years from creation, krueger said. 

however, the evolution of cellular technology is raising concerns for meat and poultry farmers. 

“there’s often kind of a push-pull in the field between a lot of enthusiasm about these new products and a lot of potential pushback from different people who grow these animals,” krueger said. 

the veganism movement, fueled by younger generations, has shown the benefits of meat alternatives. but if the world stopped eating meat altogether, serious economic and health repercussions would arise for millions of people, specifically in rural populations. many people rely on a meat-based diet to consume enough protein at cheaper prices. sources like beans and rice would not cut it, experts shared at the world economic forum. 

seaweed production 

dr. denise skonberg, associate professor of food science in the food and agriculture school at the university of maine, studies the benefits seaweed and algae can have on a human diet and the environment. her research focuses on the health benefits of seafood products like marine organisms. 

“there are thousands of species of seaweeds,” skonberg said, “and they vary a lot in terms of their appearance, their color, their nutritional value, their texture, and their flavor.”

she said the growing “foodie” movement in the united states – a movement that has sparked new types of cuisine – leads her to believe large-scale seaweed production would benefit the economy. the global seaweed economy amounted to $6 billion in 2018, mostly produced in china. skonberg said the warm waters on the east and west coasts could make ideal places for larger seaweed farms. 

however, the warming ocean temperatures raise a concern for the sustainability of these potential farms. skonberg said scientists are currently studying the genetic diversity of various kinds of seaweed and testing where various types of seaweed thrive in various climates. 

what’s next

the bottom line for all three experts? more research is needed. sustainable farming for crickets, cultured meats, and seaweed needs more engineering investment to understand if these options can help sustain humans and better the environment. however, all three experts stressed that the possibilities are out there for sustainable food, like increased health benefits for humans. 

now the funding and technology efforts must come together to make it happen. 

clemmons isn’t in the pantry, either. she isn’t among the shelves of donated food items, diapers, feminine hygiene products, paper products, and dog food, nor between the racks of clothing. other volunteers hurry through the donation area, picking out the items requested. next month, they are hopeful they can return to their pre-covid model: allowing the people to come into the building themselves and pick out what they want. 

through the backdoor, past the parking lot, clemmons is shoveling compost with one of her thursday volunteers. it’s an essential part of their closed loop, regenerative farming practice. the approximately 1,000 square feet of soil in daystar’s edible garden is made entirely of the compost. the city donates seagrass scraped off of boat ramps, and coffee grounds and shrimp shells are donated from local companies, all for the compost. 

down the line of crops, you can find papayas, okra, mustard greens, basil, and more. at the end of the line are juvenile avocado trees and a jamaican cherry tree. clemmons searches the whole tree for one cherry, which tastes exactly like cotton candy. once the avocado trees are fully-grown, clemmons hopes they can provide adequate shade for the bus stop that a majority of their visitors take to travel to daystar. for some, it’s an all-day affair just to get here, since the bus comes by so infrequently, according to clemmons. 

the edge of the farm, marked by the avocado trees, sits directly next to a major road, across from an on-ramp of interstate 275, one of the largest in florida. daystar sits in the heart of south st. petersburg – a food desert or, as clemmons describes it, “a services and food desert.” 

scarcity and supply

“food desert” is a complicated term, but the fao defines food deserts as “geographic areas where residents’ access to food is restricted or non-existent due to the absence or low density of ‘food-entry points’ within a practical traveling distance.” 

this plays a significant role in the ongoing issue of food insecurity, a complicated and multi-faceted problem. according to feeding tampa bay, approximately 194,514 people in pinellas county, fla., are unable to reliably purchase nutritious food. given that nearly 1 million people live in pinellas county, this means close to 20% of people within the county are food insecure. 

on a national scale, about 10.2% of people in the united states were food insecure in 2021, according to the u.s. department of agriculture. 

studying these issues are people like david himmelfarb, instructor and internship coordinator at eckerd college. he teaches classes such as food movements and food & sustainability and holds a position on the farm advisory committee for the college’s community farm. 

himmelfarb said he became interested in food at a young age, noting that it always seemed to be the central bond among his family. 

“food brings people together,” himmelfarb said. 

this interest developed in a greater appreciation for cultural and biological diversity, leading to a career in anthropology. research in places such as papua new guinea has led himmelfarb to even more insights about food movements. 

“i started really thinking about the ways that people establish communities and strengthen their communities through the exchange of food,” himmelfarb said. 

but food security is a complex issue, and this is something on which himmelfarb and clemmons both agree. according to himmelfarb, you can’t just put grocery stores into food deserts. 

“that perspective is leaving a lot of things out,” he said. “that doesn’t address the fundamental issues of wage stagnation and lack of economic opportunities that make it such that even if the food is around the street from you, you can’t access it because you can’t afford it.”

the cultural, social, and economic aspects of the issue of food security are all intertwined – leaving out or focusing on only one will inevitably have consequences. you can’t address one without the other, according to himmelfarb. 

but, he said, a more conscious effort in making food a focus in our daily lives can help raise awareness. 

“i think it’s important for people to understand and get more involved in the production side of things,” he said. “you don’t need to go out and be a farmer, but if you come out to the farm and help out and see how things grow, you start to understand the choices that farmers are making.”

providing “the good stuff”

large organizations and long-term food social movements are key in creating a more just and adequate food system. but, small-scale, community-based farms like the eckerd college community farm or the edible garden at daystar life center can help support institutional sustainability over the long term. these small steps help drive the social movements or larger organizations necessary in enacting change. 

“food justice is a whole big wheel and i’m just on one spoke of it,” clemmons said. 

clemmons and the volunteers at daystar life center make these strides towards educating people about the importance of food. 

“what you eat is everything,” clemmons said. 

during peak growing seasons, the center hosts practical cooking classes to show people who are receiving goods what they can do with the produce. they explain the health benefits of crops such as collard greens, mustard greens and swiss chard, and then demonstrate easy-to-make meals, some that can be made with just a hot plate. 

they hand out infographics about spices and herbs, and label the crops. as people in need line up to receive donations, they can see the crops growing in the raised beds along the sidewalk and, with these recipes and classes, can get an idea of what to actually use them for.

janine duffy, who has been a regular volunteer with clemmons for just over a year and a half, emphasized the practical cooking classes as something that sets daystar apart from other organizations. 

duffy also described how the garden at daystar provides fresh produce that can be essential to people’s lives. she recalled how impactful these fresh greens can be to people’s lives, especially people with chronic illnesses. according to her, people have come in to receive okra as a staple in their diet for diabetes and have used greens for juices during cancer treatment. 

“people line up when it’s harvest season,” duffy said. “we will bag pounds and pounds of greens that people can utilize instead of eating processed foods.” 

the edible garden at daystar has only been in production for three years. the first year produced 600 pounds of vegetables, the second year 1,400 pounds. as of october 2022, the garden has produced around 1,700 pounds. clemmons said she hoped to hit the milestone of producing an actual ton of vegetables, or 2,000 pounds. 

for clemmons, it’s more than just the numbers, though. 

“i wanted to focus on getting the best food to food pantries, because they always get second-best,” clemmons said. “i want to grow the good stuff for the people who may not have access.”

the farm itself, just off of storefront-lined lawrence avenue, interrupts the cityscape, appearing like a lush jungle apparition. 

although the farm has “training” in its official name, linda seyler, the director of the farm, says that there’s not much that she or farm manager haley lerand have to teach them. 

“they were farmers in their home country. they’re the best farmers i’ve ever met,” seyler says. 

their training does, however, focus on preparing farmers for chicago’s climate, as well as introducing new crops that the farmers might not be familiar with, such as swiss chard. 

than naing oo, one of global garden’s market farmers, says “kale, chard, spring onion, they love the cold.”

lerand says that farmers might not be immediately excited about growing more typical american produce, but that it eventually grows on them. in fact, she says some market farmers might not have even tried eating some of the american vegetables that they grow. 

naing oo, on the other hand, is curious, and although he didn’t initially like arugula, he’ll eat it after pickling it in a brine of water, dried rice, and salt. 

naing oo has been selling his yields as a market farmer for two years now, but has been farming with global garden since its inception in 2012. 

farm essentials for a global community

before coming to the u.s., naing oo spent 20 years in a refugee camp in thailand. he is karen (pronounced kah-ren), an ethnic identity that is a point of contention in myanmar due to karen people’s ongoing persecution in the country. most farmers at global garden – about 75% in fact – are refugees from myanmar (previously burma). many of them dislike being referred to as burmese, a term that challenges their people’s sovereignty.

farmers like naing oo have brought traditional fruits and vegetables to chicago to grow in their garden, while also integrating local cultivars. known as his “signature” are chinese long beans, which he likes to prepare in a salad with fish sauce, lime, and other veggies.

in late september, he had picked his plants bare, taking what he could before the end of market season.

amaranth is another popular crop with the farmers, including naing oo. it is indigenous to the americas, but is mostly seen as a weed.

“if you had a corn or soybean farmer come and visit they would look at us like we’re crazy for cultivating it,” lerand says. but she explains that amaranth is more nutritious than spinach, and farmers often use it for stir frying.

another common fruit on the farm is bitter melon, which lerand says is most commonly used for medicinal purposes. farmers might eat it with eggs, or if they’re really brave, on its own, because, as seyler says, “it is really bitter.”

naing oo makes a soup with water, garlic, bitter melon leaf, and squash flowers steeped in hot water, which he says is good for digestion. he says he isn’t much of a cook though, and likes to bring the ingredients home for his wife to make.

also on the farm, naing oo likes to grow thai chilis, a popular farm snack that farmers tend to eat on its own raw or wrapped in bitter melon leaf to eat with their stir-fried vegetables and rice – common in lunch boxes. 

lerand says that there’s lots of sharing of cuttings and seeds on the farm, creating a sense of community. naing oo was able to get hingala seeds, a plant that’s native to myanmar, from another farmer at global garden. 

“and pretty soon, you have people from all different cultures growing a particular plant, which is really cool to see,” lerand says.

sustaining in spite of it all

but things don’t always work smoothly on the farm. seyler says that they expect a lot of turnover at the garden, as she says there’s “a natural loss of participants.”

“they end up moving out of chicago, because it’s expensive to be here and hard to figure out how to buy a house here, and they don’t need our little garden plot anymore,” seyler says.

she also cited the previous presidential administration for the reduced participation after former president trump put caps on the amount of refugees who could enter the united states. even this year, the biden administration has missed the mark on refugee admissions, with only 20% of the allocated spots being filled.

while the farm wants to prioritize newly arrived refugees, most farmers have been with them for years, with the newest family joining three years earlier. seyler and lerand are happy with the community space the farm has also been able to provide.

lerand says that she and seyler have hopes of finding another plot of land in chicago to expand farming opportunities. global garden refugee training farm is not the first refugee agricultural project in the u.s., but it is important that spaces like this one continue to be created for farmers like naing oo so they can stay connected to their traditions.

today, we talk about a fun and tasty way to combat invasive species by putting them on the menu. invasive species are organisms introduced into an environment outside their native range that cause catastrophic economic and environmental damage. controlling invasive species can be costly and time-consuming but including them on your plate could be a viable way to manage and even reduce populations. we share a fun and simple crockpot feral pig pulled pork recipe. 

feral pig pulled pork sliders – recipe courtesy of invasivore.org

ingredients

4lb feral pig shoulder roast

1 tablespoon vegetable oil

2 tablespoons brown sugar

1 tablespoon salt

1 teaspoon ground black pepper

½ tablespoon garlic powder

½  cup yellow mustard

brioche slider buns

water as needed

directions

1. coat pork roast in mustard to act as a binder for the dry rub.
2. combine seasonings and spoon over the pork roast, ensuring the rub adheres to the pork.
3. coat the bottom of the slow cooker with vegetable oil.
4. add pork roast to the center of the slow cooker.
5. cook low for 6-7 hours or high for 4-5 hours until meat easily falls off the bone or shreds easily if using boneless. once the internal temperature reaches 195°f-205°f it will be ready to shred and safe to eat. 
6. while still in the slow cooker, use a pair of forks to shred pork meat, removing fat as desired.
7. enjoy on a toasted bun.  optional: top with coleslaw to enjoy your sandwich “southern style!”

**note: if you notice your pork roast getting dry during the cooking process, add water until the roast is halfway submerged and maintain the water level for the rest of the cooking.**

the only water roy pfaltzgraff has for his crops in haxtun, colorado, is what comes out of the sky, and that is not much during this mega-drought that has been devastating the west. despite extremely difficult growing conditions, pfaltzgraff still produces crops at a decent yield, in large part due to his soil health practices.

pfaltzgraff is part of colorado’s saving tomorrow’s agricultural resources (star) soil health program and is the only farmer in colorado, as of october 2022, to receive a maximum of five stars for the soil health of his fields. the outstanding soil health in his fields also impacts food quality, and pfaltzgraff is passionate about producing a quality product compared to the conventional farming focus on yield. with an associate’s degree in culinary arts, he has crafted several delicious gluten-free mixes using millet flour, corn, and other crops on his farm.

pfaltzgraff believes that it is important for people to get to know farmers and understand how food is produced. farmers and producers like pfaltzgraff will be profiled for their soil health practices in an upcoming three-part documentary series called “hold our ground,” which i am helping produce with the colorado state university center for science communication.

in september 2022, i had the privilege of visiting mcginley ranch of the turner institute of ecoagriculture near gordon, nebraska, to learn about regenerative ranching and ecological economics for conservation and commerce. 

on nearly 80,000 acres of pasture, a herd of about 4,000 bison is supporting a community of more than 8,000 organisms. these bison are carefully managed and grazed on parcels of land to create subtle disturbances in the vegetation and soil below. grazing disturbances create habitat diversity which sustains life on the prairie and improves its watershed. 

in this short film, dr. carter kruse and ranch manager tyrell mcclain explain the importance of regenerative bison ranching and its lucrative opportunities. 

here’s the thing: meat and animal products taste good all on their own, while vegan and vegetarian food require mastery. if you go to a vegan restaurant, the level of time, effort, and skill that must go into the food they’re creating goes above and beyond. further, the food requires no harm to animals, has less of a negative environmental impact, and, therefore, carries less guilt.

while it’s unlikely that everyone will adopt an entirely plant-based lifestyle, eating more sustainably should be everyone’s goal. eating more vegan or vegetarian meals, shopping locally, and using seasonal produce are some main ways to do that. animal agriculture is harmful to the environment in three major ways: excessive water use and greenhouse gas production, and destructive land use.

on the flip-side, there are many benefits to eating a plant-based diet, such as improved animal welfare and personal health, and better sustainability. i’ve been an ovo-vegetarian (someone whose diet includes eggs, but no dairy, meat, or fish) for a few years now. while living in san diego, i’ve been on the search for the best vegan restaurants. san diego is a wonderful place to be vegan or vegetarian, but as our need for more sustainable food grows, so does our need for more sustainable options. so, if you’re living in san diego, or just here for a visit, here are few of those places. they’re delicious, comforting, and provide an array of options that’ll satisfy even the most tenacious of meat eaters.

your new favorite jewish deli: ben & esther’s

a few months ago, a close friend of mine asked me to meet her for lunch at a spot that she’s been dying to try. we’re both vegetarian and are constantly on the hunt for the best vegetarian and vegan food in san diego. ben & esther’s is a hole in the wall style jewish deli, with all the fixings: giant jars of kosher pickles, a selection of baked goods, deli counter salads, and a list of classic sandwiches, bagels, and of course, schmears.

i’m not exaggerating when i say that i was over the moon after seeing the menu. my friend and i both ordered our sandwiches. i went for the rueben, a pickle, and a raspberry jammer for later. she got a bagel sandwich, and some schmear.

since then, i have moved around the block from their location on el cajon boulevard and i’m not embarrassed to say that i have eaten there almost every week since. even my non-vegan mother was impressed. she’s 71 and still asks if they have “regular” eggs at every vegan restaurant we go to.

i reached out to ben & esther’s founder justin king, whose grandparents are the deli’s namesakes. he put me in contact with his business partner marc bennett, who lives here in san diego. marc and i spoke about the main goal of the company, to make consistently quality and delicious jewish-american deli food.

ben & esther’s was born in portland, oregon, and has since opened three restaurants: the location on el cajon blvd., one in oceanside, california, and a second portland location. they are soon opening a location in seattle. marc says that their goal is to open locations all along the west coast, a goal i believe they will have no difficulty accomplishing.

vegan food, that’s reminiscent of your favorite jewish deli order? what more could you want? both justin and marc sign their emails “for the animals,” a phrase that speaks volumes, as kindness and accountability are two of the pillars of the vegan lifestyle. so next time you’re craving a blt or a philly cheesesteak, check out ben & esther’s. and make sure to grab a raspberry jammer for later, though be warned, it probably won’t survive the car ride.

the date-night spot: donna jean

i like to think that the future of food is in restaurants like donna jean. it’s a glorious, sustainable brunch and dinner restaurant on the outskirts of balboa park in san diego. i spoke to its founder chef roy elam about his gem of a vegan restaurant, whose namesake is his late mother, donna jean. when donna was diagnosed with breast cancer, her doctor recommended that she start eating a more plant-based diet. according to a 2017 review, a vegan diet reduces overall cancer risk by 15%. this is possibly due to the presence of phytochemicals — biologically active compounds in plants that help protect against cancer. there are other benefits of a vegan or vegetarian diet, such as better metabolic health, healthier gut microbiota, and lower cholesterol.

roy flew home to st. louis, missouri, to help her veganize some of her favorite recipes. years later, he was inspired to create a restaurant that, while plant-based and sustainable, offers beautiful and delicious seasonal dishes. my favorites are their house bread with maldon salt (i recommend upgrading to the garlic butter sauce — it’s unreal). seasonal dishes like the sea bean caesar salad, and their hot shrooms: deep fried oyster mushrooms with pickles and nashville style hot sauce.

they even have pasta and pizza, made with their own vegan cheese that actually melts. chef howe (of donna jean) and chef roy created scratch house vegan cheeses. chef howe was unimpressed with the vegan cheese options on the market and embarked on creating his own. just look at their “fungazi” pizza. i’m in love.  

chef roy works with local markets and produce suppliers to make a menu using seasonal and local produce. therefore, the menu will vary depending on season, and location. they have recently opened a second donna jean location in sherman oaks, a neighborhood in los angeles. reservations are required for the l.a. location, and strongly suggested for san diego. it’s just that good. chef roy eventually hopes to open another location, in st. louis, missouri, to bring home some of his amazing recipes. but in the meantime, make a reservation at donna jean in san diego or l.a., it’s food at its best: seasonal, sustainable, and comforting. i promise, donna jean will transform how you view vegan food.

the punk rock quick bite: underdog

the newest member of san diego’s vegan lineup is underdog, a food truck on the borders of university heights and north park. they opened their truck only three months ago, but they’re already getting noticed. i reached out to married duo chelsea and mark ross who created underdog. together they embarked on a journey to veganize classic street foods. they’ve both been vegan for two decades and wanted to create a food truck that’s entirely vegan but boasts all your favorite street foods. they’ve got everything from korean-style corn dogs to animal fries and chili dogs. the concept is vegan food but punk rock, no limits, no rules. 

as with the previous two establishments, underdog has a similar goal: providing delicious food without any harm to our animal friends. i’m a big fan of their corn dogs. they’re truly a perfect food; fluffy, savory, and served with a choice of condiments, though i’m a ketchup and yellow mustard purist all the way. however, the next time i stop by, i’m grabbing the “goblin’s club.” it’s their korean-style corn dog covered in french fries, panko, and sugar. 

i reached out to chelsea and mark. we spoke about how they’re stoked on the vegan community here in san diego and surprised at how strong it is. we bonded over our shared experience and how much we appreciate that san diego is becoming something of a vegan oasis. when you go looking for them, their truck is bright orange and parked on the corner of el cajon blvd. and texas st. you can’t miss it. they’ve got the perfect location if you’re looking to grab a quick bite. whether you’re vegan or not, they have an amazing selection of delicious options. they might be the underdogs in this list, but they’re already making a name for themselves.

the future is vegan 

not every city has as many vegan and vegetarian restaurants as san diego. however, the future looks promising and it’s thanks to restaurants like these. i am so grateful to ben & esther’s, donna jean, and underdog for making excellent dishes that give vegan food a new trope: good to your taste buds, and good to the planet. these restaurants have helped make me more optimistic for the future of vegan food, that maybe people (regardless of diet) will choose to eat at plant-based restaurants. making this choice becomes significantly easier when there are more vegan restaurants to choose from. so, whether you live here, or are visiting, i hope you choose to check out one of these restaurants. i promise that you’ll love them.